Monday 17 December 2012

WanderLust # 1 : Susegad

WanderLust

I was inspired by a friend to add on a new section this month - a travel blog. Why not, I thought to myself - even if I don't travel much, and even if I don't have holidays exciting enough to write about. At least I have something to say - and I insist on saying it, and can only recommend Voltaire's advice to you: that you may not agree with what I have to say, but you could consider defending to the death my right to say it !!

Chapter 1 : Susegad
A "private" beach

To tell it in Wikipedia's words:  "Susegad" is a concept often associated with the Indian state of Goa. Derived from the Portuguese word socegado ("Quiet"), it is normally mistaken for the relaxed, laid-back attitude towards life that is said to have existed historically in Goa, a former Portuguese territory. What Susegad actually means, according to most experts is a contented form of life existent in the state. Goa is described by a Sunday Times writer as "South Asia’s Latin Quarter: indulgent, tolerant, capricious, steeped in a tropical lassitude and wedded to the sea." The concept may also carry negative connotations such as "indolence" and in recent years it has been suggested that the relaxed Goan culture of Susegad has given way in the face of modern stresses.

Well, not everyone can tell it like Wikipedia. Goa, an hour away by air from Mumbai, is, not unlike Mauritius, a land of lavish hotel properties, wide open spaces, beaches of all shapes and sizes, and hordes of tourists.

I don't know much about the backpacker's Goa; I know even less about the fishing-village-visiting-resident Goa. But I DO know about the corporate Goa, and the hedonistic visitor's Goa. So.....here are a few do's and don'ts - not necessarily written in the traditional way.

Church of St. Francis of Assisi
  1. Assuming you're travelling from Mumbai - please, please don't try driving there. The roads are crap, the traffic is horrific, and you might like to look at topping up your life insurance and updating your will before you leave.
  2. If you're the wallow-in-the-sand variety, remember that there really is no such thing as an exclusive beach. The five- and seven- star properties do try and invisibly ring-fence their bits of sand, but it's not really allowed.
  3. Unless you want to be wrung out to dry, do not hire a car / SUV through the hotel at which you're staying. Bargain with the taxi guys just outside, but make sure you keep the hotel informed.
  4. The much-hyped Goa River Cruises still aren't expensive, but the VFM ("value for money") coefficient has taken a terrific beating in recent times. You can skip this one.
  5. Britto's at Baga Beach still serves up a mean set of dishes - if you don't mind eating with your feet on sand, in a  non-air-conditioned environment.
  6. To feel like a millionaire, stay at the Park Hyatt; to try and become a millionaire, stay at the Cidade de Goa (they have a casino); if you can't decide what you are but still like to live high off the hog, stay at the Fort Aguada; and if you're confused, there's the Kenilworth, the Marriott, the Renaissance, and any number of other fancy properties to choose from.
  7. You're welcome to try the watersports, but not if you're squeamish. There was this father of a teenaged daughter who sprinted back from the water to the hotel, yelling, "that guy sexually touched my daughter on the jet-scooter !" The purveyors of Goan water merchandise are all male, and some of them may be lusty. Keep your hair (if you're male), and your chastity belt (if you're female), on.
  8. There are beaches everywhere. Naturally, they all have sand, in varying degrees. They also have rocks, vendors, flea markets, con men, Russians, drugs, watersports, insalubrious elements and fishing boats. Define what you want from your beach, and visit only those that will give you the necessary levels of nirvana.
  9. Do see the churches - some of them are outstanding. They're everywhere, and many of them are World Heritage Sites.
  10. Finally - Goa is a place to relax. Try not to do too much. It's a lotus-eater's paradise. That's what "susegad" is about.
I'm not an authority on the place. For those who are Goaphiles, my apologies if I have inadvertently offended you - you're welcome to add your contribution.

2 comments:

  1. Behind every great writer is a friend who inspires him/her to write? Surely seems like!

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    1. hmm....interesting ! that's certainly a possibility ! but i'm not a great writer, just one struggling to make clauses meet.....but it sounds like you're liking what you read, so thank you for that !

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